I've been in love with Japan since I was a anime-obsessed kid, and visiting Tokyo in high school was the best travel experience I've ever had.
Yet at the same time, I've heard it said that the software landscape in Japan is pretty rough -- bureaucratic, aged, and inefficient. I've found that really upsetting, because Japan has, of course, a reputation for being a technological wonderland.
People living in Japan -- natives or otherwise -- is this true? I've had a dream of living in Tokyo as a web developer since the day I came back from Tokyo, and it seems like the only way to make this happen as a non-Japanese speaking (though very interested), non-CS major American is to come already successful, or not come at all.
Your best bet would be getting hired by a foreign firm and then laterally transferred to their Tokyo office. Neither not speaking Japanese nor failing to possess a CS degree will make it impossible for you to do IT work at e.g. the Tokyo branches of large foreign investment banks.
If one goes strictly by the published requirements, it would not be straightforward to get you an engineering status of residence (so that you could be hired as an engineer by a Japanese company, as opposed to being transferred in from a foreign company), but there are ways around that. (For example, documenting that you have 10 years of paid experience in development would satisfy the degree requirement... that documentation will be expected with to-the-month resolution.) Candidly, if you do not speak Japanese, getting a professional job with a Japanese megacorp is likely to be quite difficult. (There are a very few prominent exceptions, such as Rakuten.)
There are some Japanese startups which hire foreigners who do not speak Japanese. Your best bet for getting hired at one is to know the decisionmakers personally (true of getting hired at any company anywhere, but of particular interest to you). One potential avenue for finessing this is to come to Tokyo on a visa-waiver for a few weeks of sightseeing, meet people like it is your job, and then get the ball rolling on employment. Fair warning: many startups are, like the US, not exactly organizationally optimized to support your visa/status of residence paperwork.
Just to pile on: It's hard to overstate how large the language barrier is in Japan. For all intents and purposes, nobody speaks English and therefore you cannot speak, listen, write, or read anything during your interactions with the people around you.
I don't want to scare kmf off from coming here; you should, it's a wonderful country. Just need to manage your expectations...
Well if you want to compare rural Japan to rural Russia...
I see hudibras is getting downvoted but it probably is fair to say that to native English speakers new to the country, people may expect more than they get from ESLs in Japan. I have some pet theories as to why but I don't think it would contribute all that much to the discussion. Unless you're coming to Japan to be a corporate translator (may all the gods have mercy on your soul) it really shouldn't be an issue as long as you're willing to learn a little Japanese along the way.
Is Google Translate totally useless? I've found it does a great job of providing audio in and out, as well as romanization so you can do a hack job from zero. Google Translate even seems to offer a limited IME so you can type roman or kana and it'll guess the kanji.
Shopping in Korean, I can just set it to OCR mode and sorta read labels I don't understand. (Of course, Hangul's probably a lot easier to OCR than kana+kanji.) I've also found that while the store people will respond to me in Korean if they don't see me, once they realize it's me they flip into a common third tongue.
I've even had "conversations" in other languages just by pressing the flip button and letting the other person talk. They can correct any audio recognition failures or just type.
In general, the translations for simple stuff and interactions seem pretty good. Sometimes you need the alternative translations to find one that is accurate. But I wouldn't say you "cannot speak, listen, write, or read anything".
OTOH, sometimes it has odd things. Formal-something I (吾輩) like from the "I am a cat" gets translated as "Spence" (I think the pronoun isn't used much). Or maybe one possible pronunciation of them is close enough to Spence it's used as a name in some place that uses those characters?
Not to mention, you can pick up the kana in a week, and at least the meanings of the basic kanji in a month or two, claims the guy that made the book that did teach me kana in a week. I'd assume if you're gonna go to Japan and be serious, you'd at least listen to the first 10 Pimsleur sessions for basic "hi I can't speak Japanese", and learn the scripts somewhat.
No, Google Translate is not totally useless for an amusing conversation about cats at say, a cafe.
For a job interview or a more formal business environment though, you're going to start at a considerable disadvantage if you don't speak Japanese in Japan. It's possible (I did it), but it's really, really hard.
I always say that the true test of being fluent in Japanese is not being able to read the newspaper or have a conversation. It's being able to read and fill out a government form while people are waiting in line behind you and a bureaucrat is waiting patiently in front of you.
I meant just as a tourist for a few weeks; you could at least figure out basic stuff, right? It's not like you'd be totally stranded and unable to communicate at all.
Wow, awesome information. As I haven't had to deal with citizenship, well, ever, it's interesting/enlightening to learn about the work that goes into obtaining it. I'm going to bookmark this one for future reference, thanks Patrick!
Find my email if you ever need help with Japanese immigration or employment issues. I am not a lawyer or a judicial scrivener but I have a fair amount of practical experience with applying chapter and verse of Japanese immigration law to the practical realities of technology companies. (This offer is open to anyone.)
> the software landscape in Japan is pretty rough -- bureaucratic, aged, and inefficient
Quite true. Where they excel is physical processes (hardware and people). Within an hour of being there it's evident: monorail quickly ferries you from tarmac to customs (easy), then fingerprint scanner connected to PC running Windows XP craps itself 10 times before success (annoying). Your luggage is neatly arranged on the conveyor by staff so that it's upright, identifiable and simple to pick up (easy). Go to bathroom and grin as the urinal flushes itself, then wash hands with delightful auto soap dispenser and auto basin then quickly egress to the airport subway (great!). Discover onboard wi-fi only accessible using unintelligible pre-paid system (nuts...I need to check my email). Oh well, I'll be at the hotel soon. Check in and bang your head against the wall as they advise one part of their system has the correct check-in/check-out dates, while another critical system has different dates. Lovely clerk talks with manager to find a work-around to a double-booked room. Finally get in hotel room and whip out Macbook Air...Ethernet access only. Off to the local Softbank store to get a dongle. Plug it in - 100/100mbit internet connection (Lovely!).
You're in a state of flux between delight and bewilderment.
This was a delightful read, but I don't believe accurate. I'm writing this from tokyo at the moment (on vacation) and I haven't experienced any software hiccups.
The fingerprint reader at customs worked fine.
WiFi on the high speed train from Narita worked wonderfully. I signed up on the browser redirection, registered for the 1-day free offer for Visa cardholders, they correctly allowed me access to the CA so the connection was secure and their certificate signed. It was generally quite smooth.
Google Maps' detail in Tokyo is unbelievable. "Ginza line towards Shibuya station. Walk for 2m. Take the stairway down to the 1st floor. Walk for 25m" I am not making this up.
I heard a saying that everyone lives on eight streets at any one point in there life. No matter where you go, if you live there long enough, you'll settle in and find a routine that you're used to.
The first month of living in Japan is bliss. You're learning a new language, playing with really cool public infrastructure, solving problems you didn't imagine you'd run into (is there a three-pronged outlet anywhere in this apartment?!), and seeing things that you'd consider "exotic" on a daily basis.
Once the novelty wears off, you start to understand that you don't quite fit into this culture quite as well as you thought you did. It turns out that growing up in America does infuse you with certain values, and they're not as universal as you think. When people say such-and-such is "part of the culture," that means that on an individual level, that thing is part of people's value system.
Going home before everyone else, for example, isn't just awkward; it's wrong. It's unfair that some of your coworkers have to stay late and some get to go home. What would your mother think? Why are you complaining that you can't use an ATM after 10pm? Why would you ever want to do that? Is it because you're irresponsible and bad at planning? Or are you just using it to stay out all night drinking?
Right now you might think you're alright with the working hours because, hey, Japan! But when your version of "Japan" is your apartment, your desk, the bar after work, and your train commute that you've cut down by 15 minutes due to your supreme knowledge of entrance positioning, you will wonder what happened to those dreams of castles, temples and teahouses. You could plan a trip somewhere, but you'd have to take a day off work when everyone's so busy, and that would be wrong.
If you don't have a CS degree, it is harder to get a job here, because visas are tied to your career path, and for an engineering visa, you need a related degree or ten years of professional experience.
In Japan you can look forward to low salaries, long hours, no advancement opportunities and working with trailing edge technology. Whats not to like?
And unfortunately that's only slightly hyperbolic. Full discussion below, and do bear in mind that it's a) an atypically good offer for Japan, and b) much of the audience is young English teachers on shoestring salaries.
I've befriended many Japanese open source hackers in the past year or so (through my own OSS contributions to a project started by a guy originally from Japan - details in links in profile), and I've asked them about the best places to work in the web space.
My conclusion is that the following are the only companies that you should consider if you are in a position to choose (i.e. via your skill): Cookpad, LINE (formerly NHN Japan, formerly Livedoor), DeNA, GREE. That's basically it.
I've seen quite a few non-Japanese Cookpad engineers on Twitter, and heard from @miyagawa that they actually have an "international team" as well (and at least some of these non Japanese engineers seem to live in Tokyo). IIRC they are hiring, so maybe shoot him a msg on Twitter? (his english is one of the best I've seen from someone originally from Japan)
It's sort of true. Part of the reason being that kids there have had the same stunting of growth that kids in the West have as well since the start of social media.
More often people equate "Internet", "Web" and "Mixi" (Their version of Facebook and of course Facebook is popular too). And it's hard to get a proper feel for what's really out there online and, more importantly, what areas are lacking.
That's not to say Japan has any shortage of innovation. They're very creative in innumerable ways. Sometimes the creativity shines through the bureaucracy (especially among the younger people). Culturally, they're still very dependent on the "group".
[Source: Two close friends living there]
Edit: Also note, it's a bit expensive to live there, so you need to support yourself with minimal luxuries (at least at first) as possible.
This is heavily location-dependent and also dependent on lifestyle factors. Raising a family in Tokyo as rich expatriates (the lifestyle that e.g. Citibank managers adopt when "in country") would require an income pretty deep into the six figures (in dollars). However, 22 year old employees of Japanese megacorps take home salaries which are less than typical San Francisco rents and make them work.
The ramen profitable number [+] for me in Gifu prior to getting married was about $1,500 a month if I were cooking Japanese food and about $2,000 a month when I was eating my usual diet, which included lots of meals out (not too expensive here) and Western food (quite expensive). An example of the difference: I find it literally impossible to do a taco party for friends for under $60, where if we were having a typical Japanese dinner that could cost $10 to $20.
[+] Edit: This is really important: while $1,500 is indeed ramen profitable, if you attempt to use that level of income in support of getting or renewing an engineering status of residence, it is highly likely you will be ramen deported. The examining clerks have wide discretion in how they define "enough" income but "at least as much as a Japanese person" or "3 million yen" are much more common than "ramen profitable" in sustained applications.
I came to Japan a little over ten years ago with a non-CS degree, an English teaching job, and a desire to do web development here. It took me two years of learning the language and building my portfolio of pro-bono/super cheap sites, but after that I started scoring freelance gigs. I would do anything: servers, design, programming, translation, whatever would pay to get me out of teaching. As time went by I could focus more on what I'm good at, server admin and programming. I've worked for foreign firms, Japanese firms, Japanese firms founded by foreigners in Japan and I've set up two of my own companies here. It absolutely can be done.
That said, you will run into bureaucratic nightmares. I could go on for pages about firms that won't allow developers FTP access, ones that won't allow you to set up WordPress (they're not an official vendor), firms that want people to sign up for their email newsletter, but by phone because they think the Internet is scary and they don't want personal information put into their website, and other stuff that to this day I still sort of don't believe.
But you'll learn how to be patient, get through those situations, and build either a client base or find a job somewhere that makes sense. Because there are great clients and good companies to work for here. It takes time, but if you learn the language and have solutions to problems people have and can show some examples of those solutions in a portfolio, you'll start finding work. Webdevs are a dime a dozen, but good webdevs who can seamlessly work in English and Japanese will always have work here.
I heard that a startup which I don't know hired Chinese when I was working in a startup in Tokyo. I also found some non-Japanese speaking people were working in OpenSource cafe.
http://www.osscafe.net/en/
I'm going to give you some links that would be useful.
Yet at the same time, I've heard it said that the software landscape in Japan is pretty rough -- bureaucratic, aged, and inefficient. I've found that really upsetting, because Japan has, of course, a reputation for being a technological wonderland.
People living in Japan -- natives or otherwise -- is this true? I've had a dream of living in Tokyo as a web developer since the day I came back from Tokyo, and it seems like the only way to make this happen as a non-Japanese speaking (though very interested), non-CS major American is to come already successful, or not come at all.