The IntelliJ IDEA plugin for Scala is built by Jetbrains, so it has official support. It has its quirks, but so does the Kotlin plugin.
Sbt is better than Gradle IMO, as it has a saner mental model, although for apps you can use Gradle or Maven. Sbat has had some awesome plugins that can help in bigger teams, such as Scalafmt (automatic formatting), Scalafix (automatic refactoring), Wartremover and others. Scalafmt specifically is best in class. With Sbt you can also specify versioning schemes for your dependencies and so you can make the build fail on problematic dependency evictions.
Scala CLI is also best in class, making it comfortable to use Scala for scripting – it replaced Python and Ruby for me: https://scala-cli.virtuslab.org/
Note that Java and Kotlin have Jbang, but Scala CLI is significantly better, also functioning as a REPL. Worth mentioning that other JVM languages hardly have a usable REPL, if at all.
The Scala compiler can be slow, but that's when you use libraries doing a lot of compile-time derivation or other uses of macros. You get the same effect in similar languages (with the exception of Ocaml). OTOH the Scala compiler can do incremental compilation, and alongside Sbt's support for multiple sub-projects or continuous testing, it works fairly well.
Scala also has a really good LSP implementation, Metals, built in cooperation with the compiler team, so you get good support in VS Code or Vim. To get a sense of where this matters, consider that Scala 3.5 introduces "best effort compilation": https://github.com/scala/scala3/pull/17582
I also like Kotlin and sadly, it's missing a good LSP implementation, and I don't think Jetbrains is interested in developing it.
Also you get all the tooling that's JVM specific, including all the profilers and debuggers. With GraalVM's native image, for example, Scala fares better than Java actually, because Scala code relies less on runtime reflection.
I'd also mention Scala Native or ScalaJS which are nice to have. Wasm support is provided via LLVM, but there's also initial support for Wasm GC.
So to answer your question, yes, Scala has really good tooling compared to other languages, although there's room for improvement. And if you're comparing it to any other language that people use for FP, then Scala definitely has better tooling.
All build tools are terrible, and among the available build tools, Sbt is OK.
Let me give you an example … in Gradle, the order in which you specify plugins matters, due to the side effects. Say, if you specify something complex, like Kotlin's multiplatform plugin, in the wrong order with something else, it can break your build definition. I bumped into this right off the gate, with my first Kotlin project.
In Sbt this used to matter as well, but because Sbt has this design of having the build definition as an immutable data structure that's fairly declarative, people worked on solving the problem (via auto-loading), and since then, I've never bumped again into ordering issues.
There are other examples as well, such as consistency. In Sbt there's only one way to specify common settings, and the keys used are consistent. Specifying Java's targeted version, for example, uses the same key, regardless if the project is a plain JVM one, or a multiplatform one.
Sharing settings and code across subprojects is another area where Gradle is a clusterfuck, whereas in Sbt it's pretty straightforward.
Don't get me wrong, Gradle doesn't bother me, and it has some niceties too. Other ecosystems would be lucky to have something like Gradle. But I find it curious to see so many people criticizing it when almost everything else is pretty terrible, with few exceptions.
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Note that Li Haoyi has great taste, and Mill is looking good, actually. But he also likes reinventing the wheel, and the problem with that for build tools is that standardization has value.
Standardization has so much value for me that I would have liked for Scala to use Gradle as the standard build tool, and for Scala folks to work with Gradle's authors to introduce Scala as an alternative scripting language for it, despite me liking Gradle a lot less. Because it would've made switching and cross-language JVM development easier.
In the pre-LSP era, I worked as a novice Scala developer, and I didn most of my Scala work in Emacs with ENSIME. It was pretty good. I imagine the language server is pretty usable by now.