I was looking some time ago (a year or 3) how to de-rust stuff and found out that you do go over the thing with a wire brush, then some acetone, and then you pick up your industrial laser rust remover! Magic happens at step 3 apparently.
...I did good enough on my project - phosphoric acid stuff + a lot of scrubbing.
As someone who started doing things in `meat-space` at the tail end of 2020 I've learnt a lot about YouTube sponsor-fic vs reality.
I have a YT channel which is me documenting stuff I've done. Anyone interested is encouraged to (easily) find it. And this is just to prove that my mouth is exactly where my written word is.
When I'm looking for how-to's on YouTube, I scroll until I see (a) an actual dirty construction worker with poor camera angles (home improvement) or (b) a dirty garage (auto).
It's the easiest way to ensure material requirements will be distilled down to "Now, cut the top off a plastic coke bottle..."
The actual answer to derust stuff without fancy equipment is a wire brush and an Evapo-Rust bath (which is mostly nontoxic and environmentally friendly). Alternatively something like rust bluing https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/restoration-services/rus...
Find me evapo-rust in EU for a not-a-business-buyer yes-2-litres-is-more-than-I'll-ever-need for a decent price and I'll buy you a decent beer or five :-D
Sorry to steer this from rust, but is there a way to cleanly remove factory logo decals? I have a keyboard (instrument). It has what look like very thin white decals that have been heat-treated in to black painted metal at manufacture. I tried Goof Off. I don't know if there is some kind of powerful solvent that might work. I don't want to wire brush it off.
Lacquer thinner is straight up potent stuff and will remove many things, possibly more than you wanted to, including the paint.
As always, try it somewhere unobtrusive first. Use it in a well ventilated area as well.
If the logo is actually adhered on, heat will go a long ways towards loosening many glues. You can buy plastic razor scrapers that'll help lift the logo once you get the glue softened. I like the Scraperite ones. Get a sampler pack of the blades and do some experimenting to see which works best.
Again, too much heat will take the paint off too. Being in a well-ventilated area will reduce the risk to your lungs if you go too far with the heat.
ETA: if it's powder-coated like the sibling comment suspects, I have no idea where to start. Even painting over could be hard. I tried painting a black powder coated cabinet, and it's flaking off like crazy.
- Vinyl decals - try applying hot water for 5 minutes. Hot to touch, not boiling and decal must be continously covered with water. It should slide off.
- Stickers - if goof off doesn't work, try epoxy paint solvent. It's added to epoxy paints that you use on floor, but you can buy it separately. This stuff is several times more potent than anything I've tried. Found out by accident when pouring into sink with a sticker at bottom. The sticker just slid off seconds after applying.
- If those two don't work - it's probably some heat-set paint, you will not remove it chemically.
It really depends on what they actually are. That sounds like a job for a heat gun on low and a plastic scraper. Butter wet wax can take care of some adhesive residues and maybe might help. Then there’s always a nice acetone soak. Be very careful (I mean just don’t) with heat and any solvent because you’ll light a nice big fire and burn your house down.
If you’ve got decals on paint there’s always a risk you’ll strip both off at the same time.
A 3M stripe off wheel might also help, but do your research on any of these.
Decals that don't come off with Goof-Off or mineral spirits may be more vulnerable to citrus-based removers and vice versa. Either way, the key is allowing plenty of soak time. Soak the decal, cover it with something impermeable, and let it sit overnight if necessary.
For flat iron surfaces, it's hard to beat a single-edge razor scraper. The plastic Allway holders are great. Incredibly, the HDX ones are crap. Not sure how they screwed that up, but they did.
Anyhow, the steel of the blade isn't hard enough to scratch the surface without some serious effort, which means you won't wear any hollows where there's more rust (beyond any pitting from the rust itself). It's quicker than a wire brush because you're basically cutting under the rust and lifting it off in paths the width of the blade. Replace the blades when they get full or nicked. They're more than cheap enough.
As mentioned elsewhere, Evaporust does wonders for any remaining rust.
I was looking some time ago (a year or 3) how to de-rust stuff and found out that you do go over the thing with a wire brush, then some acetone, and then you pick up your industrial laser rust remover! Magic happens at step 3 apparently.
...I did good enough on my project - phosphoric acid stuff + a lot of scrubbing.
As someone who started doing things in `meat-space` at the tail end of 2020 I've learnt a lot about YouTube sponsor-fic vs reality.
I have a YT channel which is me documenting stuff I've done. Anyone interested is encouraged to (easily) find it. And this is just to prove that my mouth is exactly where my written word is.
Reality always wins. I take solace in that.