I'm personally primarily busy with GNU Taler, but still in touch with the more active developers. Major work is still happening on the transport subsystem with the goal of improving NAT traversal. Some work is being done to make the code run on Android. A messenger application (incl. text and voice) works --- if your network/NAT are happy, which most of the time they are not (see my first point). There is also fun cryptographic work happening on Reclaim:ID (SSI), and improvements to the GNU Name System (registrar implementation, automatic scalable import of large DNS zones). Plus some work on automatically testing the system using Linux network namespaces. But yes, quite regular breaking changes and still too frequent breakage on the transport layer means that the active network is tiny. OTOH, until NAT traversal reliably works (incl. our self-imposed restriction to not simply assume that Google runs a TURN server/ICE environment to relay our for us), GNUnet is really only suitable for developers anyway. So normal users sadly still cannot use it. But, development is still quite active.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I'm glad to hear that gnunet is still slowly but actively developed. Recently I saw that the gnunet package in Debian is orphaned and will be removed by the end of month [1]. But if the network is currently not really usable, except for developers, then that is probably not a big deal.