Eh, I think it's like media reviews. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and a lot of times what professional critics think has nothing in common with what the average person actually wants. The high end restaurant world is much like the professional art world in that it gets really pretentious and out of touch. It just is what it is.
I mostly don't go out of my way to eat at top restaurants (as opposed to good ones that are more midrange). Don't get me wrong; I've had some really good meals. But I think I'd find it all a bit exhausting as a regular routine.