I keep hearing that Jira sucks, but I've also heard from some that it only sucks if you make it suck: that it's basically PMs adding a bunch of unnecessary steps and box-ticking and such that makes it painful to use. What would you say, having looked at multiple options?

I agree, it's complicated workflows, it's too many options/features (that we never use), it's clunky and slow and some people are even using spreadsheets for some things ;)

We were on Rally before which was okay. I've used things like Bugzilla and trac in the distant pass (for mostly solo things). Basecamp and trello a few times and even gitbug (again for a solo project).

I currently like Linear's ui/ux/approach (but I have not used it really). Shortcut and Plane.so look very similar.