I gave it a try out of curiosity with Rust, which you might reasonably expect to be well supported. But it didn't start a language server. So I followed the docs to find out how and was none the wiser. A tad undercooked, I'd say.
I'm sure that nvim-lspconfig doesn't take care of installing binaries for LSP servers like this. You either set the path to the binary in your config, or you are using another neovom plugin to make sure LSP server binaries are installed
No you're right it was mason, which installs lsp servers to a location it manages. I had set it up once and then forgotten. The complexity of all the interacting packages needed with neovim does add to helix's appeal.
This, people say it's no configuration but I had no idea how to make python work, and that's even after I got l figured out I had to --install-grammars our whatever the command was.