Not great, but I think it is an acquired taste. TRAMP makes it _feel_ as if you are working locally, with some caveats. I like the fact that I can use dired to quickly navigate my projects on the cluster, open a vterm session and run my scripts, open my python files and save which automatically syncs them in the remote; magit works seamlessly (with a slight lag). What I wish is for better LSP support (lsp-mode/Eglot) for remote development - its kind of a miss for me. lsp-mode straight up does not work, and Eglot keeps me waiting until it can connect, leading to decreased editing experience. I have kind of given up on LSP for remote, nowadays I just use dumb-jump for quick navigation and local editing for more serious development.