To me however the ORM is one of the most annoying things. Not a fan of ORMs in general, but Django's implementation promotes a usage pattern where django-models are passed around everywhere, leading to hard to untangle dependencies between services once they do literally anything with the objects.
I'm relatively new to Django (longtime Flask user), and what struck me about the Django ORM so far is that it seems much easier to write extremely low performance queries. I didn't really feel this way when using SQLAlchemy or peewee, but perhaps that's just my inexperience.
