Also traveled that area, late 90s thru 2000. Somewhere with caves we went scrambling all over until through one hole a friend and I had clearly and unknowingly climbed into a families living room. Their first words (in Arabic), would you like some tea? You're english, right?

We hadn't realised (or ignorantly) but we were scrambling over a lived in area, peoples property. The reaction from everyone we randomly met was the same, warm, smiling.