Sure, there are niche categories that would be hard to get. But for your two specific examples you could use those simple sets of criteria:
1. Target specific articles with advice for older runners in running publications.
2. Target Italian recipes in cooking websites only for users located in Denver.
You don’t need to do those things manually, it can be automated. Sure, it might not deliver the scale that FB and Google are promising, but to say that it’s impossible to do contextually is not accurate.
Use Google Search ads to capture all direct intent.
Targeted ads are a response to the poor results from site/content specific ads