Try FastMail. Its beautiful and refreshing. "Old school" in everyway.
If anyone from FastMail is reading this - do not change your design or UI framework...like ever. The moment you start slowing things down with animations and bloat, that's a slippery slope...
Quite the opposite, it does its job pretty well for me. It has good keyboard shortcut support, and the UI is only lagging if I go into 80-100 long email threads otherwise pretty good.
What's unintuitive about a list of emails and few simple features? You also bog my mind :)
I don't like how it is formatted for starters. Also the reply button is impossible to find- since its not at the time like it logically should be. Reply all and other options are hidden instead of being exposed. When clicking on reply, it takes me to the bottom, away from the content so its impossible to read and response.
It also doesn't have proper mailboxes, and rules are impossible to make.
Your critique doesn’t really carry a lot of facts but mostly your negative opinion. New Gmail isn’t the fastest but it’s interface is pretty much OK and its rules are great.