This perspective has always confused me. Would you say that structured programming was a garbage marketing term, since even though the programming language didn't have goto the compiled machine code has jumps and branches? I would hope not, because the point is that an interface is provided on top of the underlying structure so that you don't have to think about gotos outside of exceptional cases.
Not having to think about what servers in which datacenter are serving a request is pretty convenient. We can argue about whether the pricing for most serverless computing is bad, but as far as the term and the technology itself I don't see how this is different from any other abstraction.
The criticism is on the nomenclature, not what's being provided. "Structured programming" is... pretty well named IMHO. Serverless is a misnomer at best and borders on fraud/false advertising from the name alone.
The technologies are fine and there are potentially useful cases for it. It's no silver bullet though and is overhyped IMHO.
Not having to think about what servers in which datacenter are serving a request is pretty convenient. We can argue about whether the pricing for most serverless computing is bad, but as far as the term and the technology itself I don't see how this is different from any other abstraction.