I've done all my books through Lulu - including doing a couple of projects for clients (schools) who did a 'make a book' project with the kids writing the stories, etc... their service has always been pretty good. The site is a bit clunky, but works. I've done a couple of one-offs for my own use as well.
And looks like they do hardcover (although I've never tried it).
The book is over 700 pages. It's very nicely done. The front and back covers are just the right thickness. The book is not bound in signatures, it's edge glued ("perfect bound") like a paperback. But, the spine is extremely flexible and not attached to the casing. I was very careful to open it properly by gently creasing down sections of pages starting at the front and the back. If this is not done, there is risk of breaking the spine. I can open the book at any page and it lies flat on the table. The paper is medium weight, light ivory, and non-glossy. The casing is printed nicely with the title, and the dust jacket is first rate. Altogether, I'm quite pleased.