I despise it as a workspace as well. Some people don't mind as much, but I haven't met anyone that's openly enthusiastic about it.

I got a pair of Etymotic In-Ear Headphones[0] which have kept me sane for several years now. They have interchangeable tips with a NRR on-par with foam plugs. Worth every penny in an open office.

[0]http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/headset-earphones/hf3.html