It sounds like if your goal is V5-6, you better be bumping up that 5.11 sport climb goal! Certainly at that bouldering level 5.12 is in your future in no time.
In terms of training plan, I’m generally very loose. I’m definitely blessed to be very lightweight naturally, and I think I’ve developed some pretty strong fingers over time. That combination lends itself to crimps which is definitely my preferred style.
Board climbing like on a moonboard or kilter board are fantastic to build power, but be careful how frequently and how intensely you climb on those. My fingers tend to feel quite tweaky after a lot of board sessions.
Ultimately climbing is a game of time and consistency. Listen to your body and keep grinding at it, and you’ll definitely see progress!
- La sportiva Theory & Katana climbing shoes, i used MadRock shark & drone for a while but after switching to la sportiva i cannot go back.
- Tokyo powder industries' climbing chalk, i tried many climbing chalks this is the one that works for me. i use it for indoors, outdoor, training and performing! the only time i do not use this chalk is during hangboarding at home to avoid making a mess.
- The clever dripper, i finally gave away my V60, the clever dripper constantly produces decent coffee.
- DataDog, my teams services are written in Scala, we use DD's JVM agent and we get lots of integrations for free (JVM metrics, tarcing for http calls, tracing for DB queries...) and we push our own metrics.
- my Iphone 10 (now 13 mini) & Macbook pro 2015, Super happy about the quality & the constant OS updates, but i miss a proper package manager like APT from Debian, i cannot seem to trust homebrew's reliability :(
I’m also a la sportiva enthusiast. I’ve found the women’s shoes to fit even better than the men’s. I’m on my third pair of women’s solutions and they are so good. I think the women’s shoes are made for a lighter person (I weigh about 135) and they are very sensitive and easy to feel footholds with.
Mars has 1% of earth's atmosphere, so it will not affect the vehicle, The answer comes from an interview with the engineers here : https://youtu.be/GhsZUZmJvaM?t=534
i used to work on a payment system and i automated test data generation, you can specify constraints about an an entity you want in your test and the software will generate all the possible instances for that entity.
Do you want a credit card ? then you get instances for all banks, products, limits, end of the month cycle ...
what used to take my colleagues a week to do, was now being done in 15 minutes.
> Google uses my data to target ads at me but doesn’t actually give any of my data to its ad-buying customers. Apple doesn’t do this but is obliged to turn over my iCloud data to the government with a subpoena.
I agree with you, but Google is way more aggressive in its data collection behavior than apple and i am getting sick of that.
I have been using Google maps this past month and i noticed some dark patterns :
- after getting directions from `your current location` when you deactivate your location services and switch apps, google maps will delete the directions and resets to the page that asks you to chose a `from` location, now you have to give google your current location to get those directions back.
- you cannot get your `current location` without internet enabled, even when you have `location services` enabled.
I'm seriously considering going iPhone for the first time, I've been an Android user since I could get my hands on an Android phone on Sprint for the first time (2009? I think...) and lived through the crappiness of early Android. I prefer Android cause I can root it, but I never do, feel like it will break something I want if I use a "ROM" (why they're not called DISTROS is beyond me) but also last time I tried to install a ROM I screwed up my phone so bad I had to factory reset the hard way through a tutorial, I basically bricked it.
With iOS I only get iOS or jailbroken iOS. Not really satisfying, but Google made an open source kernel into a proprietary mess of literal spyware.
You know, I switched to an iPhone exactly for this purpose years back. Got an iPhone 6s and used it for years.
It was definitely not easy giving up the convenience of integrations you got with Google, the small things. In the end apple maps suck compared to Google and if you want to look for a restaurant well would you rather give your info to Yelp/foursquare than Google? So Google maps it is.
After a bit you get used to it, apple does scratch your privacy itch by showing things like when an app is using your location.
Then after three years I had to upgrade, I was like that was grest, but fuck me if I have to shell out 10 Benjamins for a fucking phone when I can get an as good phone (everything except privacy) for half that price. I just purchased a Galaxy S9 and finally remembered how much I used to like Android.
Moral of the story is, if you're anything like me, you'll eventually be like fuck it Google take my data give me a cheap good phone.
>but fuck me if I have to shell out 10 Benjamins for a fucking phone
You don't have to. iPhone 8 and even 7 works well even today and unlike most Android OEMs including Google, you will get updates for at least 4 years easily. You been a 6s user, you already know that.
Pluto's flyby generated about 8GB of data and it took about 16 months to get all of it downloaded [1], and this data includes more than just the images, and i read somewhere that the Ultima Thule flyby will generate about 6GB of data.
I think the images are the first thing that get downloaded, so it should not take more than a week to get all high res images.
A good thing is you are already, motivated to sit down and work on your side project.
I suffered from the same issue and the problem was, i lose focus really easily, so what helped me overcome this is for each session i take to work on my side project, i should first define a concrete and an achievable task, so for example if the side project i am working on requires me to use a library that i am not familiar with, the tasks that i will define are :
- find out which resources are recommended to learn this library, and pick the most recommended one.
- read sections A, B and C from the chosen resource.
- read sections D, E and F from the chosen resource.
...
And examples of programming tasks are :
- Create an Http end point that forwards requests to two configured hosts.
- Create the class that captures the Http Requests.
- Create a function IncomingHttpRequest => ForwardedHttpRequest.
- write tests for this function.
Do not be afraid to further decompose your task into sub-tasks, and to define really small tasks.
Other things that helped me :
- having a desk that i only use to work on my side project.
- meditation
- listening to podcasts when i am doing a task that does not require a lot of focus.
good one. i use large whiteboards to break down the tasks of my project(s). so that whenever i want to work on the project, i can look at that task board and quickly remember where i left off last time. that helps me for my paid work too. so i can treat them side by side, and i don't spend a lot of mental effort to switch. that is another issue that otherwise keeps me from working on something.
Exactly. GitHub is quite good at showing the history and current state of a file. This extension aims to also provide a way to see how a file might change in the future.
Mine are modest, send 3 v5~v6 benchmarks in my area, red point a 5.11a and solo a multi pitch.